Textiles Exam

when filling & warp yarns are straight but not at right angles to each other

- each warp or filling yarn floats across 2 or more filling or warp yarns with a right or left handed direction of wale
- forms a distinct diagonal line
- 2/1 or 2/2 is the most common
- can be even sided, warp faced, or filling faced

- each warp or filling yarn floats over 4 or more yarns & interlaces with 5th yarn
- called a 5-harness satin
- can be warp faced or filling faced

- yarns at right angles pass over & under each other
- can be balanced, unbalanced, or a basket weave
- creates checkerboard pattern

uses ratio numbers to identify

the raising & lowering of 1 or more harnesses in a specified sequence to separate warp yarns individually, or into pairs or small groups

filling yarn is inserted through shed using a device

- pushing filling yarn next to previous filling yarn with reed
- force of beating up influences filling count

winding up woven cloth on cloth beam

warp yarns wound around a large cylinder

- frame that holds heddles & controls how the fabric looks
- most common are 4 harness looms

- wires where warp yarns are threaded through
- controlled individually or in groups for fancy weaves

- space or opening created by warp yarns when some harnesses are up & some are down
- filling yarn is inserted through shed

- pushes filling yarns into place in the fabric
- helps control count

spaces in reed where warp yarns are threaded & helps control count

shuttle, rapier, gripper, or jet carries filling yarn through shed

large cylinder where woven fabrics are rolled

- quicker because lower mass is required
- filling travels faster & loom can cycle through shedding, picking, & beat-up faster
- more picks per minute (200 picks/minute)

- air inserts filling yarn in small shed
- no width limitations, but not good for bulky or heavy yarn
- 5-10x faster than shuttle
- used for sheeting & denim

- 1 rapier carries 1 to center, & other one kicks it out
- useful for multi-colored fancy weaves, weaves with novelty fillings, & heavy fabrics
- 2 arms that meet in the middle called carrier & dummy shuttle
- used for basic cotton & worsted fabrics

- water inserts filling yarn through shed
- limited loom width & only works with continuous filament synthetic yarns
- commonly used for nylon & polyester filament yarns
- 5-10x faster than shuttle looms

- yarn is carried across full width by 1 tiny missile
- used for basic, heavy or fancy fabrics

- weaved side by side on twin warp beams
- improved productivity because each pick creates 2 widths of fabric
- often used for denim

- multiple picks, sheddings, & beat-ups occurring simultaneously
- produces very simple fabrics & is rarely used
- uses 16-20 filling carriers at a time

tubular woven fabric for vegetable bags, pillowcases, sacks of split film, etc.

- 2 warp sets & 1 filling set that are interlaced at 60 degree angles
- yarns are same size & twist
- produces balloons, air structures, sailcloth, diaphragms, truck covers, etc.

ratio of warp ends per inch to filling ends per inch (1:1 ratio)

- has more of warp yarn per inch or more of filling yarn per inch (2:1 ratio)
- 1 set of yarns forms fabric's surface

position of warp to filling yarns

when fabrics have yarns at right angles to create a better quality fabric

- used to create pattern in a fabric
- yarn floats across wale that creates a narrower, thinner stitch
- less likely to elongate than a standard knit loop, but snags easily

- requires a doup attachment used to cross warp yarns over each other
- warp yarns are not parallel to each other & work in groups in a figure 8 pattern
- examples: marquisette, casement cloth, chenille yarns

- type of jacquard weave where filling & warp faced satins are used to create subtle designs
- satin floats on satin background & are very flat

- combination of different weaves including satins, twills, plain weaves, & colors to create elaborate designs
- type of jacquard weave

- ridges, wales, or cords are held up by floats on the back
- cords usually run lengthwise
- used in bedspreads & upholstery
- Bedford cord
- stuffer yarns can be used to raise the effect

- filling pile fabric
- ground fabric is warp & filling with another set of filling yarns, which creates the pile look

- filling faced
- made with spun yarns
- may be printed
- duller but not smoother

- filling pile fabric
- ground fabric is warp & filling with another set of filling yarns, which creates the pile look

- offer individual warp end to warp end control
- provides very complex weave patterns

- for more complex weaves that may require 25-36 harnesses
- gives patterns in fabric

have up to 6 harnesses for basic weaves

- each warp yarn is individually controlled
- can be used for upholstery, handbags, & blankets
- has more intricate designs
- damasks & brocades

- geometric like patterns
- bird's eye, huck-a-back, shirting madras, waffle cloth

- number of needles per inch or NPI
- the higher the number the finer the knit

- has wales on front & courses on back
- foundation of jersey fabrics
- also known as stockinette stitch, face stitch, or forward loop

- looks the same on both sides
- also known as reverse stockinette stitch, back, or reverse loop

- used to create pattern in a fabric
- creates thicker, wider, less likely to elongate
- creates bubbles or puckers for visual interest

- plain weft knit
- simplest, several weights, runs vertically, fastest method of knitting, curls, unravels
- tube socks & t-shirts

- plain weft knit
- mesh like fabric

- plain weft knit
- color is placed in exact spot that is desired with a clear pattern

- plain weft knits
- looks like woven pile but is more stretchy
- cut or uncut pile with 2 sets of yarn including BCF
- terrycloth & knit velour

- plain weft knit
- sliver & untwisted rope of fiber

- plain weft knit
- large, novelty, or irregular yarns are inserted for texture, weight, appearance
- may be brushed or unbrushed
- inserted yarn can be sheared & napped to make fleece
- also known as french terry or fleece

- wales are dominant on both sides
- stable, does not curl, great elasticity in crosswise direction, fabric hugs body
- ribs can be small, thick, or uneven

- rib knits
- double knits made with 2 needle beds
- needles can knit simultaneously

- rib knits
- has patterned miss stitches
- can look lace-like & feminine

- 2 jerseys back to back making wales able to see on both sides along with course if stretched
- does not ravel or curl

- interlock knit
- 2 or more sets of yarn creates thick, soft fabric for suiting

- double faced & reversible
- courses are more predominant on both sides

- weft knits with variety of stitches & shaping techniques
- fibers are strategically located & most is produced on circular knitting machines

- used in intimate apparel, outerwear, sportswear, upholstery, & automotive upholstery
- can curl but is stable & lightweight
- usually quite slick on one side
- more likely filament yarns in finer gauge

- more likely uses spun yarns in coarser gauge with more elaborate or complex patterns
- have rows of chainlike loops called pillars
- carpets, lace, mesh, thermal cloth, & power net

- where a yarn crosses over more than 1 yarn at a time
- common in twills, satins, basket weaves, & fancy weaves

- face & back are different
- uses more than 2 sets of yarns
- results in heavy fabric
- true double cloth, double weave or pocket cloth, double-faced fabric

- 5 sets of yarns
- creates 2 fabrics connected with the 5th yarn set
- velvet, melton, kersey

- 2 warp & 2 filling
- work together & alternate positions on face with other set of yarns to create pockets in the fabric
- matelasse, pocket cloth/weave

- came before circular looms, - knitting is done on flat surface, - process takes longer but produces a knit fabric with less skew

- tubular woven fabric for vegetable bags, pillowcases, sacks of split film, ect.,- has many yarns feeding to it simultaneously, - yarn is carried in a spiral, - faster to produce than flat bed, - skew is sometimes an issue

- horizontal row of loops,
- CPI (curses per inch) describes fabric density

- fabric presents no wale or distinct weave effect
- appearance of being sprinkled with small spots & is pebbly looking,
- most commonly in solid colors & has an irregular interlacing pattern

- tightly woven edge of a fabric,
- prevents the side edges of the fabric from raveling or fraying,
- not the cut edges, but the finished edges of your fabric

most economical method of producing a product, but is not as fast as knitting

requires more expensive yarns

2 or more sets of yarns are interlaced to form the fabric structure

series of interconnected loops made with one or more sets of yarns

knitting is 4x faster but requires better & more yarn

- each square represents a yarn, - filled squares show where the yarn overlaps another yar, - squares show where interlacings occur

- runs in the crosswise or horizontal direction of the fabric, - also referred to as weft or picks

- yarns running in the lengthwise or vertical direction, - also referred to as ends

filling yarns dip at the center & can cause grain line issues

- may have face / back differences, - rarely printed, interesting surface & texture, - shows soil less, softer, & recovers from wrinkles better

- 5-12 harnesses, - smooth & lustrous with long floats, - unbalanced, but high count

- maximum number of interlacing, - has no technical face or back, - tends to wrinkle & have low absorbency

- 3D woven fabric made with an additional warp or filling yarn set that creates the pile, - can be uncut or cut, - used in toweling

- can be balanced or unbalanced
- 2 or more yarns that follow the same parallel path
- may be a full basket, half basket, or partial basket

basket is in both directions & is balanced

basket is in either warp or filling & is unbalanced

vertical column of loops,
- WPI (wales per inch) describes fabric density