tam 4071 mid-term

-status
-modesty
-decoration
-protection

-designation of gender differences
-designation of age
-designation of status
-identification of group membership
-ceremonial use of clothing
-enhancement of sexual attractiveness

Large squares of fabric tied or pinned at the neck served as outdoor overing

Pin used in ancient Rome for holding a garment together

length of cloth wrapped to cover the genitals

garments ranged from pieces that covered only the upper body to larger squares that were wrapped to cover the entire body

Began at the waist or slightly below the waist in the ancient world; worn by both men and women and varied in length

Simple, one-piece, and often T-shaped garments with openings for the head and the arms; usually long enough to cover the torso; in contemporary usage, for women's clothing often means an upper layer of at least hip length worn over pants or a skirt

Rectangles smaller than either shawls or cloaks were worn to cover the head and sometimes part of the body

charm worn around the neck to ward off evil

ancient egyptian women's overdress made of beads held on netting that may have been worn over sheath dress

bun of hair at the back of the neck

a sleeveless, probably decorative form of armor used by men in ancient Egypt during the middle and new kingdoms; was either strapless or suspended by small straps from the shoulders

a crown placed on the head that often held flowers, metals, or polished stones

in ancient Egypt, a stylized representation of the human eye that symbolized the moon

modern-day, traditional Arab head-covering shaped like a truncated cone; worn in southwest Asia or northern Africa; also called tarbush

a type of headband; appeared in Mesopotamia, and continued in use throughout the ancient world; revived in the 12th century as standing linen band, rather like a crown, over which a veil might be draped; continued in use well into the 14th century

orange-colored dye from the plant by the same name; ancient Egyptians used it to dye their fingernails

Ancient Egyptian fringed tunic, sometimes inaccurately described as a long, tight-fitting sheath-type dress

a black cosmetic paint used by Ancient Egyptian women to accent their eyes; made of galena, a sulfide of lead

fiber that is removed from the stems of the flax plant; popular fabric in Ancient Egypt

distinctive hairstyle worn by children of Egyptian pharaohs; one lock of hair remained on the left side of the head; also called lock of youth

substance used to fix dyed colors in fabrics so they do not fade

worn by Egyptian rulers from the Old to the New Kingdom; a scarf-like construction that completely covered the head, was fitted across the temple, hanging down to the shoulder behind the ears, and with a long tail at center back that symbolized a lion's tail

decorative necklaces for men and women used in the ancient world, often featuring semiprecious and precious stones such as carnelian, lapis lazuli, feldspar, and turquiose, as well as religious symbols

worn by Egyptian pharaohs to symbolize rule over Lower Egypt

popular motif in ancient egypt that represented the sun god and rebirth

wrapped skirt; major garment for men throughout all of Egyptian history; its length, width, and fit varied with different time periods and social classes

In ancient Egypt, a close-fitting women's garment that consisted of a tube of fabric beginning above or below the breasts and ending around the lower calf or ankle that appeared to have one or two straps holding it over the shoulders; in modern times, refers to a tight-fitting dress that follows the line of the body

high brimless hat shaped like a truncated cone, similar to the fez; worn in Southwest Asia or northern Africa

sacred cobra, symbol of royal power in Ancient Egypt

cones of scented wax that were set on the heads of guests; air would be perfumed as the wax would melt and run down over their wigs

worn by Egyptian pharaohs to symbolize rule over Upper Egypt

ritual unveiling of a bride in ancient Greece

tunic women by men and women in ancient Greece that consisted of a rectangle of fabric wrapped around the body and fastened at the shoulders

fastened at the shoulders with one pin

fastened at the shoulders with one pin and belted high on the waist

fastening at the shoulders with multiple pins

more complicated form of the women's diplax used in ancient Greece in which fabric was pleated into a fabric band

rectangular cloak of leather or wool pinned over the right or left shoulder; worn by men in ancient Greece over a chiton, espicially for traveling, when it could also be used as a blanket

hand-woven tunic presented to a groom by the bride in ancient Greece, demonstrating her mastery of weaving

close-fitting, shaped armor used in ancient Greece that covered the body and protected the common soldier

small rectangle of fabric worn by women in ancient Greece, espicially over the Ionic chiton, draped in much the same way as the himation

an early form of the Greek version of a tunic that fitted close to the body and fastened at the shoulders with a large straight pin on each side holding the back and front of the garment together; worn from the Archaic Period until c. 550 BCE

In Ancient Greece and ancient Rome, refereed to leather or metal protectors for the lower leg, in later periods, referred to armor that protected the lower legs

belt tied with a double knot worn by a bridge in ancient Greece; its loosening took place on her wedding night

A large rectangle of fabric that wrapped around the body, used by men in ancient Greece; similar to the wrapped shawls of Mesopotamia Usually draped over the left shoulder and under the right arm

A fitted loincloth garment worn by ancient Greeks and Etruscans that covered much the same area as modern athletic briefs

wide-brimmed felt hat worn in ancient Greece to provide shade in summer or keep rain off the head

brimless cap with a high padded peak that fell forward; worn in ancient Greece

narrow-brimmed or brimless hat with a pointed crown, worn in ancient Greece by both men and women

Ancient Greek bridal crown

Ancient Roman toga style in which the section under the right arm was brought higher and the top twisted into a sort of belt-like band. This eliminated the umbo

locket made of gold, silver, bronze, or leather that continued charms against the evil eye for a free-born boy of ancient Rome; placed around the infant's neck at the time of nanning

broad purple band that extended vertically from hem to hem across the shoulders on the tunic of a Roman senator beginning in Republican times; later, referred to any band decorating a tunic; plural clavi

pin used in Ancient Rome for holding a garment together

Ancient Roman bridal veil of bright orange that covered the upper part of the bride's face

Mural painitings on plaster to decorate the walls and ceilings of buildings; first appeared in the ancient world, with the earliest known example dating back to 1500 BCE and has been utilized throughout Europe and the Middle Eastern art ever since

process whereby wool fabrics are washed and shrunk to produce a dense, close wave

workshop in ancient Rome in which women (mainly slaves) carried out weaving, dyeing, and finishing textiles

the amictus was the ROman name for garments that were wrapped around the body. those that were "put on" were called indutus

a rectangular cloak from the 3rd century Rome with rounded corners and a hood

a cloak from 3rd century Rome that was made of a circular cloth folded to a semicircle, thrown over the shoulders, and pinned at the front

white linen hankercheif used in ancient Rome that was slightly larger than the sudarium; became a symbol of rank, and in the late empire, was worn by upper-class women neatly pleated across the left shoulder or forearm

a heavy wool cloak from ancient Rome, semicircular in shape, closed at the front, with a hood

a woman 's shawl used in Ancient Rome; draped over the outer tunic similarly to the toga, casually across the shoulder or over the head like a veil

envolved form of the ancient Greek himation; in ancient Rome, was a broad rectangle draped around the shoulders, crossed in front, and held in place with a belt; in the Byzantine Empire, was also called a lorum, and consisted of a long, narrow, heavily jeweled scarf that became part of the official insignia of the emperor

widows in ancient Rome wore this garment instead of a palla for a year of mourning; it was probably dark-colored, but its precise form is unclear

magnificently patterned garment carried in procession to the temple to be placed upon the statue of the Greek goddess Athena

a cloak made from a single layer of thick wool, generally red; worn by ordinary soldiers and by citizens in ancient Rome at time of war

simple form of sandal worn by the ancient Romans, consisting of a wooden sole held on with thongs or a cord

pocket-like pouch formed from the overfold of the Imperial Roman toga

a slipper-like shoe reaching to the ankle; worn in ancient Rome

garment reserved for free, married woman of ancient Rome that denoted status as mater familias; scholars disagree on its construction

female undergarment band of fabric used in ancient Rome that supported the breasts

loincloth undergarment for middle and upper-class men, and a working garment for slaves in ancient Rome

loincloth undergarment for women in ancient Rome; feminine form of subligar

a white linen handkerchief used in ancient Rome for wiping off perspiration, veiling the face, or holding in front of the mouth to protect against disease

lightweight garment worn by Roman men at dinner parties instead of the toga because the toga was too heavy and cumbersome to wear when the ancient Romans reclined to eat

semicircular draped garment symbolizing Roman citizenship, worn by men and free Roman children

toga lightened to an exceptional white shade and worn by candidates for office in ancient Rome; the word candidate derives from this term

purple toga with gold embroidery, assigned on special occasions to victorious generals or other persons in ancient Rome who distinguished themselves in some way

toga with a purple border worn by the young sons (until age 16) and daughters (until age 12) of the ancient Roman nobility and by certain adult magistrates and high priests

black or dark-colored toga, said to have been worn for mourning in ancient Rome

plain white, undecorated wool toga worn after the age of 16 by the ordinary male ancient Roman citizen

multicolored, striped toga assigned to augurs (religious officials who prophesied the future) or important officials in ancient Rome

plain white, undecorated wool toga worn by the age of 16 by the ordinary male ancient Roman citizen

a high-crowned, small brimmed hat worn by the Etruscans; in ancient Rome, referred to a speical hairstyle where the hair is drawn to the top of the head and wrapped in vittae, designating the status of mater familias

created by pulling a clump of fabric up from the first and invisible part of the Roman toga that had been placed vertically from floor to shoulder; may have helped to hold the toga drapery in place, but seems ultimately to have become a decorative element

a woolen band used by matrons in ancient Rome to bind hair; plural vittae

sleeve style used during the late Middle Ages that widened from the shoulder to form a full, hanging pouch below a tight cuff

a vertical line of decorative brooches or jewel-like ornaments stamped from gold placed on the front of the placard

tightly fitted one piece garment worn in the 12th century

hairstyle used during the late Middle Ages that gives the appearance of an inverted bowl around the top of the head

solid military armor from the 14th and 15th centuries; the trunk of the body consisted of a cloth or leather garment lined with metal plates

small burrowing rodent; trimmings and linings from conys were reserved for the lower classes during the late Middle Ages

During the late Middle Ages, referred to a round cape used by men that buttoned on the right shoulder and left the right arm free or closed at the center with a chain or ribbon; by the 17th century, the term referred to cloth shaped as a bodice that was stiffened, usually with bone, and laced together at front, back, or both; could be used as an under or outer garment; see also busk and stays; in later periods the contruction and shaping changed in order to enable the wearer to conform to the fashionable silhouette

variant of the surcote or outer tunic used by men and women during the 14th century; for men in France, referred to a sleeve garment for outdoor wear; for men in England, referred to a garment for use over the pourpoint, with a distinguishing sleeve that ended at the elbow in front, while hanging down in back as a short tongue or longer flap; for women this garment may have been a fitted gown with a hanging sleeve

an elongated, exaggeratedly pointed-toed shoe used during the Middle Ages; also called poulaine

form of decoration used during the late Middle Ages in which edges of the garment were cut into pointed or squared scallops

originally a man's close-fitting, sleeveless garment with a padded front; worn during the late Middle Ages, and varying in construction appears even more extensively as part of the Italian Renaissance and in the Baroque Period men's dress; see also pour-point and gipon

mesh snood or skullcap used during the late Middle Ages, made of gold mesh or fabric worked in an openwork lattice design and sometimes decorated with jewels

a general term used in many periods for a woman's dress

a knight's padded undercoat from the 14th century

defined in slightly different ways in different periods, but generally meaning a skirted garment fully covering the upper and lower body and reaching to the ankle or the floor; worn by men or women; after the Renaissance tends to be a used for a woman's garment especially for formal occasions, except when worn by men and women in professions such as the law, religion, or higher education

a short coat of mail worn by a knight over the gambeson during the late Middle Ages

a tall, exaggerated, steeple-shaped headdress style adopted by Burgundian women at the close of the 14th century

special motifs and symbols associated with the nobility and their families; used in the Middle Ages

a wide-skirted overcoat with winged cape sleeves and two, flat, tongue-shaped lapels at the neck; used during the late Middle Ages; French variation of the garnache; also spelled housse

originating as a man's house coat worn over the pour-point during the late Middle Ages, became a garment for generl

a mid-calf version of the houppelaude for men that appeared in the 1400s

garment worn by upper-class men during the late Middle Ages that was shaped much like a tabard, being closed over the shoulders and open at the sides; short versions had a slit at the front for ease when riding; longer versions for walking had no slit

term originally used interchanglably with cote-hardie during the late Middle Ages; similar in fuction (though not in cut) to the modern suit jacket, although it was worn with hose rather than with trousers

long, decorative lace or fabric streamer on a garment or headdress

trimmings and lining used during the late Middle Ages made of ermine and a fur resembling ermine; reserved for women of the nobility

costume of nobles and servants of the late Middle Ages, as well as officials of the court and ladies-in-waiting to queens or duchesses; distibuted by kings, dukes, and feudal lords; eventually came to mean special uniforms for servants

men's and women's garments of the late Middle Ages, decorated by sewing together sections of different-colored fabrics; also called parti-colored

straight hair worn shoulder-length or shorter, with ends curled under very smoothly at the back and sides; popular in the late 1930s

a large white or purple cloak similar to the Greek chlamys, worn by emperors or generals in ancient Rome; cloak worn by men and women of the Byzantine Empire that fastened over the right shoulder with a jeweled brooch

overshoes from the 18th century that protected wet and muddy surfaces; similar to clogs; were made of matching or other fabrics and had sturdy leather soles, built-up arches, and latchets that tied across the instep to hold the shoe in place; less fashionable versions for working people were made with metal soles and leather fasteners

French word for a stiffened panel with a rounded lower edge; part of the surcote, it joined a wide band encircling the hips to which the skirt was attached; worn during the late middle ages; in English, called a placard

in the late Middle Ages, laces or lies that ended in small metal tips, or "points" and were used to close or join various parts of a garment

close-fitting, sleeveless garment with a padded front that originated as military dress; worn by men from the 14th to 17th centuries; also called a doublet or gipon

System popularized for textile industry of the late Middle Ages in which a merchant became the middleman for textile workers, selling the workers the fiber, then buying back the finished cloth, followed by selling it to the fuller, then buying it back; the merchant arranged for dyeing, then sold the completed fabric to agents who sold it at medieval trade fairs

lapels used during the late Middle Ages that turned back to show the underside on the V of a gown's bodice; also a contemporary fashion term for this type of lapel

loose-fitting gown worn during the late Middle Ages that appears infrequently, seemingly most often in Flemish and German paintings; the bodice was cut with a round neckline with a cascade of gathers or pleats at the very center of the front and back

sewn-in sleeves, a design feature influenced by military garments during the late Middle Ages

high-crowned, narrow-brimmed, slightly conical hat worn by men and women in the early 17th century; also called capotain

narrow fur or feather piece from the 18th century that was worn around the shoulders like a modern-day stole

a fine white linen or silk scarf from the early Middle Ages that covered the neck; the center was placed under the chin and each end pulled up and fastened above the ear or at the temple; generally worn in combination with a veil

a distinctive Italian women's headdress style of the second quarter of the century; large, round head coverings that were somewhat turbanlike

the Italian word for a man's shirt and for a woman's chemise; plural camicie

very high platform-soled shoes worn by women throughout Italy and in northern Europe during the Renaissance; soles were especially high in Venice

a pouch of fabric that was sewn into the crotch of hose to accommate the genitals, make the hose fit perfectly, and enable men to relieve themselves; it closed with laces; first appeared during the late Middle Ages. With added padding it became an obvious feature of men's clothing; went out of use by the 17th century

chain or band of metal or pearls worn across the forehead, with a jeweled decoration located over the center of the forehead; popular during the late 15th century for women

Italian Renaissance set of clothing made up of three garments: two layers of indoor clothing and a mantle for outdoors

diamond or triangular-shaped piece of fabric inserted into a garment's structure to provide a wider opening to some area; makes greater comfort or fit possible

a means of closing garments by threading cords called laces back and forth through openings in fabrics in a way similar to lacing shoes

brimless cap with a high padded peak that fell forward; worn in ancient Greece

decorative device used on clothing of the Middle Ages in which small amounts of fabric in contrasting colors were pulled through slashes made in the outermost fabric layer

cuts in the fabric through which an underlayer of contrasting colored fabric might be pulled; especially popular during the Renaissance Periods

Traditionally, a men headdress consisting of a long scarf of linen, cotton, or silk wound around a small cap or directly around the head; in more recent times, a woman’s version is a close-fitting hat material wound around a small inner cap or a hat constructed to look like a man’s or woman’s turban.

small, jeweled metal points used as fasteners

separate short skirts worn with a jacket or doublet for civil dress, or over armor for military dress; made from a series of lined and stiffened gores; persisted in civilian dress well into the mid-16th century, and over armor for even longer

a complex textile originating in the last half of the 16th century; created by twisting or knotting together linen, silk, or cotton held on threads held on bobbins. also called pillow lace because during its production the lace was held in lace with pins set in a pillow

stuffing made of wool, horsehair, short linen fibers called tow, or bran; used to pad trunk hose and doublets in the 16th century

padded roll placed around the waist in order to give skirts greater width below the waist; popular in the late 16th century

a device made from a long flat piece of wood or whalebone that was sewn into one or more casings in corsets of the early 16th century

extensions from the end of the trunk hose to the knees or slightly below, made in either the same or a contrasting color with the trunk hose or fastened to separate stockings at the bottom; used by men in the late 16th century

Sheer, gauzelike veil worn by women in the late 16th century, cut the full length of the body from shoulder to floor and worn cape-like over the shoulders

a 16th-century English term for undergarment that evolved from the braies or breeches

wide men's shoes from the 16th century with decorations including slashing with puffs of fabric pulled through the openings; shaped resembled the bill of a duck

men's and women's hat style from the 16th century with a pillbox-like shape and a turned-up brim; some versions had decorative cut out sections in the brim

type of coif; linen headcover shape for wome during the Northern Reinaissance; an English style shaped like a pointed arch

Wide hose or breeches worn in the 16th and 17th centuries

In England after 1500, term used synonymously with jacket

Shoelaces used in the 18th century that crossed the tongue from either side

Open ruffs, almost a cross between a collar and a ruff, stood high behind the head and fastened in front into a wide, square neckline; named for the 16th-century Medici queens of France, Catherine and Marie, during whose reigns this style was popular; style revived in the 18th and 19th centuries

From the 16th century, lower section of a type of men’s hose that was sewn together with the upper stocks

During the late 16th century, wide, full style of garment worn by men to cover the lower part of the body

corset from the 16th century cut into two sections and fastened at the front and back with laces or tapes

From the early 16th century, English term for a man’s doublet to which hose were anchored

Narrow strips of fabric placed over contrasting linings to ornament garments; especially popular during the Renaissance

Pronounced front of the doublet popular by 1570 that resembled the puffed-out chest of a peacock

a row of small, square flaps placed just below the waist of the doublet, popular in the second half of the 16th century

In the 16th century, an underskirt worn with an over dress that created an overall silhouette rather like an hourglass; in later periods, an underskirt that was sometimes an invisible undergarment and sometimes a visible garment

Perfume holder mounted on the long cord of a woman’s jeweled belt; used during the 16th century

A garment of Spanish origin from the 16th century; an outer gown or surcote made either sleeveless or with one of the following types of sleeve: a short puffed sleeve, or a long sleeve puffed at the top and fitted for the rest of the arm’s length; possibly derived from Middle Eastern styles

Style of trunk hose that sloped gradually from a narrow waist to fullness concentrated about mid-thigh, where they ended; also called galligaskins; used from the 16th to the 19th centuries to refer to breeches that appeared wide at the knees

Wide, separate collar used during the second half of the 16th century and the first decades of the 17th century; often made of lace and stiffly starched

Garment constructed of whalebone, cane, or steel hoops graduated in size from the waist to the floor and sewn into a petticoat or underskirt that provided support to the flared, cone-shaped skirt; first appeared in the mid-16th century; also called verdugale

British English term for corset

First used in men’s doublets in the 16th century (also called a paltock in England), later with women’s corsets and dresses; garment was cut with a deep V at the front, and a filler or stomacher of contrasting color was inserted under the V, extending to the waist or beyond; separate stomachers could be tied or pinned to the front to vary the garment’s appearance

Frame that supported ruffs of enormous widths during the 16th century

breeches worn by men in the mid 16th century that were joined to nether stocks; ranged in size from very wide and padded to very small and worn with tight-fitted hose

section of men's hose that in the 16th century was sewn together with the nether stocks; eventually took on the appearance of a separate garment, and was cut somewhat fuller than the lower section

Skin tight version of breeches from the late 16th century, wide at the top and tapering to the knee

another name for the Spanish farthingale

Women’s undergarment used for shaping floor-length dresses; steel or cane spokes of the same diameter were fastened from a topmost hoop at the waistband down; also known as a wheel farthingale or drum farthingale